"Hey scoot over Grizzly!" I said to the guy sitting in the seat next to my reserved 45G on the flight back to Oahu. He looks up confused "What the Fuck?"
Its my old room-mate C toff. We lived together at the sunset house together for a while a hand-full of years ago.
Small world.
We chat it up most the flight catching up on the last few years that we hadn't seen each other. Viva La Freestyle.
So that's how my day began, and it got better. Living a freestyle life has its rewards, but there is some moments where questioning it can lead to a pretty style free feeling. The night before we were smashing beers with the Olsens, running a usual muck, when Carl asked "You getting a van or what?!"
FUCK.
I realized I hadn't made a move yet and the one van I liked never called me back. With a team of Iphoners we found one that could be perfect. I called in a cross-eyed state and it seemed to be a my only van lead when I arrive. My plans were to get back on the North Shore with a van, all ready to go.
Things were happening.
After a ricketty teast ride in town I make it out to Ewa to check the 89 Econoline. "Keys on the seat, take it for a spin" He said over the phone, he was at work.
I love hawaii.
Cruzy.
Sold.
After being gone for 10 months it was a bit nerve racking to see the Sugar Mill again. So much time and energy spent there. I can smell the resin as I turn into the shop at Charlie's. He's Glassing. With a Mask. Good job Charlie. He is up to his elbows in resin so I take a bit of time poking around. Everything is new and everything is the same.
Its good to see Charlie. I had been working with him for 8 years. I love working with the guy. He is freestyle guru status. A quiet genius. We catch up while he bakes a board in the sun to make it kick. Putting his nose to the freshly lammed board like a fine wine. A 2011 Solar Laminating Resin, from a five galloner, a good year.
A lot has changed in the mill and everyone seems to be busy and stoked. Good vibes, I like it. Sounds like there is waves so I head to my old house on Ikuwai. No one is home so I grab a little board with no leash and wax. Ooops. Its six feet out front and the sun is setting. I see my old roommate on the wall drinking a beer, catching the last bit of sunset. We quickly catch up before I jump out in the water. Warm.
I love it.
Home again.
I spend most the surf duck diving and getting sets on the head. Its getting dark. I catch a few insiders and head in. Back at the house, it is beautiful. It is amazing what 3 girls can do to a place. Or was it what 1 guy did to a place? The girls all go to yoga, I go get beer. Taking the Mosquito moped to Foodland was a bit sketchy at night, I have been gone long enough to not know where the new potholes are.
I gasp as I see the Foodland beer prices. I might have to get a part time job. I manage to sneak in and out pretty smoothly with only seeing a few friends. The guy who pulls in behind me in line turns out to be a fellow board builder Mike. We chat. There is work around. Winter is coming. A board builders gold rush. Its like crab fishing in Alaska. Seasonal. Functional.
The girls come back from yoga and we trade stories over beers and wine. I am the luckiest man on the planet. I am able to do exactly what I want to be doing when I want to. I get to be creative with my work and expected to change. I am surrounded by beautiful people in a beautiful place.
Viva La Freestyle...It works
-nick
here is some art that came out of the art day time lapse video. Ill post more soon.
