Lifestyle freestyle

Talking to our friend Mark last night, I kept reflecting on my last session at Pleasure Point, my home break. He's so stoked on surfing, living the life and keeping fit. It's inspiring to to be around people that are so committed to the sport. It's people like him and his family that take surfing beyond a sport and make it a culture, a lifestyle.
 This particular day started out as normal, too much work to do, and deciding that checking the surf is not a priority. I have my premium surfline account but still didn't bother to look. Work's always waiting for you like a faithful lover, there's always more to do, there's always more time to give. Unlike the ocean, who can be so jealous and withholding when you need her the most, like a woman that you love but you can't trust with your friends. You always hear about that amazing time they had together while you were gone. So it can be easy to shun her, but something always pulls you back.  
The news starts to come in via txt.
:waves r good
:?
:southwest
:hows the tide
:low n evening
People start disappearing from the shop. Standard issue in the surf industry... the only ones that are left are usually the ones that have their stereos too loud or are too tuned out in general to know that there's something better to be doing. With two days left before I depart to the islands, it's a difficult choice. Leave and surf and deal with work later, or work now, skip surfing knowing that there will be warm water waiting for me in HI.
I decide to check it, the usual compromise. Taking a peek never hurt anyone. It's pretty packed, but the waves just keep coming and coming. Dammit. I suit up and head out, work will have to wait... I've got a new mini-sims that needs "R&D" in the back of the car. Good excuse.
My friend Geoff meets up with me as we head out, he's got a mini too. Cute, we're like a couple walking down to the beach together- two boards the same, one red, one blue. I decide to take a back route to the water, no need to make a scene.
We end up surfing on the inside of the mainbreak for awhile, no one else around. 2 foot high and fun.  Hooting. Thats what surfing's about. Fun waves, good friends. It doesn't matter how big it is. Friends that you're stoked when they paddle around you and get that next wave. Geoffs good at that.
I paddle over to the main break, bracing myself for the crowd. Everyone is smiling. Good sign.
Waves keep coming and coming. Everyone is getting a share. The usual uneasiness that you feel in the water when sets are scarce isn't there. Stoked.
I trade boards with Geoff. We have the same board with different fin placements. You can feel the difference. Twin keels further up, looser sweeter feeling but with less drive. Fins further back, stiffer ride but added drive. Always learning, always confirming.
After an hour and a half I head in. Back to work. Geoff calls me out.
"Short session?"
"I've got plenty."
"Power session?"
"No don't just need anymore."
It's true. These days it just takes a few to remind myself of why we do it. There's no need to be greedy. Friends, family, fun... lifestyle, culture... commitment. Thanks Mark. -Carl